An Interview with Chris Connolly: Managing Director of Connolly's Wines

May 3, 2007
By Clive Platman

©2007, The Birmingham Post

Tucked under a railway arch beneath Snowhill Station is a rare gem, Birmingham's only independent retail wine specialist. The Connolly family have been involved in the wine trade for over four generations, but the current business was established by Pat in 1976. Chris, training as an Estate Agent, joined his father in 1979, simply to provide cover. Chris, now 47, succeeded as MD, and last year, Connolly's celebrated its 30th anniversary.

Connollys have just celebrated their 30th anniversary, what do you think are the most significant changes?

The most obvious change within our business is the enormous range of wines now available. In 1976 we principally listed wines from France and Germany, with the rest of Europe comprising Valpolicella and Soave from Italy, Sherry and Port. There was nothing from the New World. Today, we carry around 1,000 different wines from around the globe.

There have been significant structural changes within the industry, too. On the retail side, supermarkets have simply taken on more and more, and the medium-sized regional businesses have just been squeezed out by national chains. Within the trade, the traditional London-based shippers have simply merged and disappeared.

So, is there still a place for the independent?

Absolutely. The trade has polarised between the giants and the independents. The large multiples are looking at volumes and focussing on brands, at the expense of smaller, quality-conscious, producers. Personally, when I look around the supermarket shelves or High Street chains, all I see is the same set of standardised brands … it's boring. As independents, we succeed by unearthing exciting new producers or regions often overlooked by the wine-buying public.

Can you give any examples?

For sure. We've been looking to improve our Australian range, and I recently sent my team down to Lords for the Australia Day tasting. It was so mundane. There just seemed to be endless Semillon-Chardonnay blends on stand after stand, all tasting much of a muchness. The only difference was the price or discount available.

Two weeks later, I went to an Austrian tasting, and the wines simply blew me away. There's a new generation of talented winemakers producing wines of real personality and character, and Gruner Veltliner is a grape with enormous potential.

But surely you're in business to make money?

Of course, but it's not simply about chasing the fast buck. If you want to remain independent, you must stay true to your principles. The reason people come to me is because I have wines with real interest, and I'm able to offer something different.

We've all got different interests and there are loads of things I know absolutely nothing about, but I am passionate about my wine. It's wonderful when a customer comes in, tries something a bit different and returns full of enthusiasm.

For example, a customer of mine asked me to put together a couple of mixed cases for the Christmas period. She later e.mailed me to say she was not just thrilled by the choice, but they were a selection of wines she knew nothing about, and would never have thought of trying.

Who are your customers, and don't they want safe choices as well as wines you like?

Well, broadly speaking, my customer-base can be split between the on-trade and the off-trade. My private clients are looking for that something special, so they might specifically buy my Burgundy. On the other hand, the wholesale trade are looking for something a bit more predictable and safe.

We work closely with our restaurateurs, preparing their wine-lists and, of course, it's essential to get the basics right. That means including the ubiquitous Pinot Grigio or Chilean Merlot but, nevertheless, there's always scope to liven things up a bit with a few surprises.

What's important is to regularly review the lists and see what's selling. One client recently complained that he couldn't shift some Gruner Veltliner, but when I opened a bottle and made his staff to try it, they got the point.

You're particularly renowned for your Burgundies; what makes the region so special?

Burgundy simply has an infinite capacity to disappoint. It's highly unpredictable and frustrating, but when it's great, it's just sublime. On a recent visit, I tasted the Volnay Clos des Chene 1996, and it was simply breath-taking.

Of course, you can source good New World Pinot Noir, but it's just so much more predictable. Whilst I realise it's probably a safer choice, it's simply never as good as Old World Burgundy at its best.

Are you still "providing cover"?

For the most part, the wine trade has given me a great life. There are, of course low-points and frustration, but tasting wine at the cellars of Michel Lafarge and the late Philippe Engel in Burgundy is close to an earthly paradise. Yes, I still have the passion.

Connolly's Wines, Arch13, 220 Livery Street, Birmingham, B.3 1EU. Tel: 0121 236 9269 info@connollyswines.co.uk