©2007, The Birmingham Post
In an age with a compulsion to label or pigeonhole, Mas de Daumas-Gassac (MDG) is a "one-off". Without direct comparisons or competitors, it's a stand-alone, much in the model of Chateau Musar from the Lebanon. The reputation is founded on its red, a Cabernet Sauvignon blend of Bordelais origin, in a region where the predominant varieties, Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre, are firmly rooted across Southern France, from the Rhone to the Pyrenees.
Until the 1980s, it was not thought possible to make fine wine in the Languedoc. Hitherto, the region had a history steeped in bulk-wine of mediocre quality. Yet flying in the face of logic, Aimé Guibert, originally in the leather trade, dogmatically planted his vineyards with Cabernet when he acquired his estate in 1971.
Following advice by the leading Bordeaux oenologist, Emile Peynaud, the first vintage was launched in 1978. Since then, the reputation has gone from strength to strength, winning plaudits from leading critics, and earning the sobriquet "Grand Cru of the Languedoc".
In true maverick fashion, the Guibert family have always worked outside of the system. By rejecting the indigenous varieties such as Grenache, etc, and planting Cabernet Sauvignon, their wines can never qualify for Appellation Controllee (AOC) status, and are only classified as a lowly Vin de Pays (country wine). Nevertheless, operating outside the straitjacket of AOC, they have been able to create their own individual wine, with its unique character.
Located to the north-west of Montpellier, the principal features of the estate are its exceptional mineral-rich soils, and its own specific micro-climate which benefits from extraordinary day/night variations. It is this differential that enables both the whites and reds to maintain their hallmark of elegance and freshness, in a region noted for its blockbusters.
Comprising some 50 hectares, the grapes are only sourced from their own vineyards. The red principally comprises 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, with the balance made up of some 15/20 assorted varieties, including such oddities as Nebbiolo from Piedmont and Tempranillo from Navarre.
80% of the white blend is from four principal grapes, representing the four corners of France, Chardonnay from Burgundy, Chenin Blanc from the Loire, Viognier from the Rhone and Petit Manseng from the South-West. The balance is made up from an assortment, used like seasoning to enhance the flavour.
At a recent Fine Wine Dinner hosted by Simpsons of Edgbaston, Samuel Guibert presented a selection of their current range. As an aperitif, the Frizant, a delicate, refreshing sparkling rosé is made from the run-off juice of Cabernet, fermented in a closed tank to preserve its freshness and fruitiness.
The MDG White 2006 is vibrant and youthful. At present, the Viognier character predominates, with fresh apricots and lime blossom flavours, infused with spice and rounded with butter. It's a pretty, elegant wine, still in the first flush of youth, but does have the capacity to develop.
The red has always been a star. Although still immature, the 2003 came alive with decanting, with initial flavours of meat, giving way to mulled black fruits, with a satisfying follow-through. After 12 years, the 1995 was showing its full potential, with a subtle marriage of black and red fruits, set in a creamy texture. It's so polished and elegant.
For the finale, we sampled the Vin de Laurence, a dessert wine in pretty coral-pink. It's a late-harvest blend of Sercial (from Madeira), and Muscat d'Alexandrie and, like Tawny Port, has orange-peel and nutty characters, but lighter and fresher, making an ideal match for chocolate dessert.
For details, click onto: www.daumas-gassac.com or contact@daumas-gassac.com. Alternatively, telephone the UK agents, Caves de Pyrene on 01483.538820.