©2007, The Birmingham Post
Since the collapse of Communism some 17 years ago, Hungarian winemaking has reinvented itself. It has been fascinating to observe the pace of change and improvement in quality, which has accelerated over the past three or four years, particularly following the accession to the European Union. Hungary can now claim to produce wines, not just for supermarkets, but those which can compete on the shelves of independent merchants and fine restaurants.
Yet, whilst the demise of Communism sparked the beginning of the end of badly-made, mass-produced wines destined for the Russian market, the change of emphasis for their export market has been dictated by the supermarkets. Their demand is that the wines must be cheap, carry a recognisable grape variety and, where possible, eradicate the name "Hungary" from the label.
The "Hilltop Neszmely" Winery, founded in 1989, followed this advice to the letter, and achieved early successes with its great-value Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay. It subsequently developed the popular Riverview brand, currently the best-selling Hungarian wine in the UK. Their Pinot Grigio is doing remarkably well, but sells on account of the grape variety, rather than the place of origin.
Nevertheless, the past few years has witnessed the emergence of a new generation of talented independent producers, who have been able to move Hungary from the "ethnic Eastern European" category into the modern wine-making school. To showcase this progress, Wine Educators International recently organised a trade event at Bank Restaurant in Birmingham, with a tutored tasting presented by Caroline Gilbey, MW, a leading authority on Hungarian Wine.
In spite of recognition for its whites, production of Rosé is gaining an increasing foothold. I was impressed by the cleanliness and freshness of the Ostoros Egri 2006, using the native Kekfrankos grape, with minerals, raspberries and rose-petal characters.
In fact, Kekfrankos is emerging as Hungary's flagship red. At its best, it can produce an elegant style, with fresh red fruit, counter-balanced with soft, fine tannins. In some ways, the structure is akin to a fine red Burgundy, and is certainly a grape with enormous potential. Also known as Blaufrankisch across in Austria, the Weninger Sopron Kekfrankos 2005, and the more concentrated Spern Steiner, by an Austrian winemaker, were truly impressive and worth seeking out (e.mail: info@pannonwine.hu)
The classic white varieties from Hungary, such as Furmint and Harslevelu, are characterised by a steely backbone. To control this fierce acidity, the wines were traditionally fermented and matured in old oak barrels or vats, which created an oxidative (sherry-like) style, lacking in both freshness and fruit. Modern techniques, employing temperature-control and stainless-steel have transformed the style.
In Tokay, the classic sweet-wine region, dry whites have, in the past, almost been regarded as an afterthought. Yet, these days, sweet wine is only ever drunk in small quantities, whereas dry wine is consumed in larger volumes. There is therefore an enormous opportunity.
The wine critic, Stephen Spurrier, has dubbed dry Furmint as "the new Gruner Veltliner" and it's a grape that possesses a steely core around which can be wrapped apple and lime fruit. The Patricius Dry Furmint 2005 had notes of hops with a creamy texture, and the Dobogo Dry Furmint 2005 had additional flavours of pear, peach and nuts.
An example of the second Tokay grape, Harslevelu, meaning "linden leaf", is produced by Tornoi Somloi. Their 2005 had flavours of apples set in a creamy texture, but again with that spine of acidity.
For the connoisseur, though, Tokay in its traditional form, remains the "jewel in the crown". Celebrated since the 17th century, it fell into decline under post-war Communism, with the primary focus to supply the Russian market with sweet or semi-sweet sherry-like wine.
With its once great international reputation, it was the first region to benefit from international investment in the 1990s. The investors, though, had no direct experience of Tokay or its traditions, and so brought in new ideas on how it should be produced. The result has been a rapid evolution of style over the past 10 years, favouring lighter, more fruit-driven dessert wines.
The Dogobo Winery is a case in point. Their Mylitta 2004 is a medium-sweet, late-harvested style, with flavours of baked Bramley apples and apricot. In comparison, the Dogobo 6 Puttonyos 2000 has unctuous characters of apricot, marmalade and honey (e.mail: info@libertywine.co.uk).
It's ironic that, following the improvements, the term Bull's Blood is now greeted by new-wave Hungarian winemakers with universal loathing, as it has come to represent cheap,mass-produced red wine. The dichotomy, though, is that within the UK, Bull's Blood is the brand that has the popular appeal.
For more information, click onto www.wineeducators.com, or e.mail: wineeducators@aol.com