Wine al Fresco

July 14, 2007
By Clive Platman

One of the joys of summer is wining and dining al fresco. The patio becomes an extended living-room and the great outdoors a picnic idyll. Just add a bottle of wine and any fare, however humble, can become a feast.

Apart from dodging the showers and combating the wasps and flies, the main enemy is temperature. Hot weather will quickly warm the glass, spoiling the contents.

The essential pre-requisite is an ice-bucket part-filled with ice-cubes and water for those whites and rosés, and a wine-cooler for the reds. My preference is for the terracotta type, which, after 30 minutes in a bucket of cold water, is ideal for maintaining the temperature of reds.

The main requirement for a picnic wine is forceful flavour and aroma. Whites and rosés should be fresh, fruity, minerally or herbaceous. Suitable reds are often light, fruit-driven, low-tannin styles, that can sometimes be served cool. For wines of all colours, youth and vibrancy are the watchwords.

Hot sun and high alcohol make uneasy bedfellows, so watch the alcohol levels and choose lighter styles with less than 13 degrees. Beware innocuous-looking rosés from Mediterranean climes that weigh in at a headache-inducing 14 degrees plus.

Barbecues have a different set of rules. The typically robust flavours of smoke and caramel demand wines with similar characters. They must have body, and benefit from oak treatment. Moreover, reds with tannins work, especially with red meat.

Call me old-fashioned, but my ideal patio tipple is Mosel Riesling, a sublime marriage of acidity and sweetness. Dr. Loosen's are widely available, and their Bernkasteler Lay 2006 Kabinett (£10.29) has the classic Riesling characters of crisp green apple and minerally slate. Though not as complex, their entry-level Dr. L (£5.95) will provide affordable pleasure. From the same stable, the Villa Wolf Pinot Gris (£6.49) has vibrant pear fruit with a hint of sweetness, and should appeal to more demanding Pinot Grigio fans, seeking something less bland.

If one grape variety encapsulates summer, it's Sauvignon Blanc. It has fresh grassy-green characters, and is so versatile, it can be enjoyed alone, with salads or seafood. Whilst Henri Bourgeois produces the finest Sancerre, bargain-hunters seek out the Petit Bourgeois 2006 (£6.69). Although only possessing lowly Vin de Pays status, it has all the easy-drinking characters of the senior wine.

South Africa, too, is carving a niche for this variety, and the crisp, herbaceous Jordan's Sauvignon Blanc 2006 £7.99) delivers in spades. For real value, though, try Chateau Le Fage White Bergerac (£5.70 Tanners 01743 234455).

The rising popularity of Rosé has been phenomenal, as people discover how delicious and versatile they can be. The key feature is freshness, so always buy the latest vintage available. My penchant is for Languedoc Rosé, which is fully-dry, with minerally red-fruit flavours. Tanners list Domaine Pujol and Villerambert-Julien (£5.99 and £6.50), amongst the best available. Incidentally, the reds from both properties (£7.99 and £10.20) are fabulous with barbecues.

Now unfashionable, Beaujolais, lightly chilled, has all the desirable elements of an easy-drinking summer red. The 2005 vintage was particularly special, and both Villages Lantignie (£6.85 Tanners) and the Society's Morgon (£6.95 Wine Society 01438 740222) have delicious crushed raspberry flavours.

For those who care not for Gamay, I have recently rediscovered an old favourite, the Grenache-based Grand Moulas 2005, from the Rhone (£6.40 Tanners). Bursting with red summer fruits and pepper, it's on top form.

Barbecue reds benefit from robustness and oak treatment. The Cousino-Macul Merlot 2004 (£8.95) presses all the right buttons, with an immediate style of oaky plum and leather flavours. Two blockbusters from the land of the "brei" that can stand up and be counted are the Kaapzicht Shiraz and Pinotage 2003 (Tanners £9.50 and £9.60). Finally, as a suggestion to cope with a sweet barbecue sauce, try Zinfandel. The brambly-fruited Walkers Pass 2003 (Wine Society £8.95) is as good as I've tasted.

Unless stated, all wines listed are from Connollys (Livery Street, Birmingham. Tel: 0121 236 9269).