©2007, The Birmingham Post
Do you know how many of the UK's Top 10 best selling wines are French? The list is dominated by the likes of Hardy's, Gallo, Blossom Hill and Jacob's Creek, with wines predominantly sourced from Australia or California. So, the answer is none.
Brands account for the lion's share of the UK retail business. Consumers love them, because they're reliable, consistent, easy-to-drink and they can remember the name. Supermarkets and High Street chains adore them, too, as they are supplied in large volumes and can be available on promotion.
Their turnover is colossal and so is the marketing budget. Slickly labelled and glossily advertised, the wines generate ever-increasing sales. It's a win-win situation and branding is the obvious route to the market.
Along the way, the French have been left behind. For so long, the dominant force in world wine production, they have fallen off their pedestal, replaced by Australia, and are in danger of dropping down to the bronze position, as they go neck-and-neck with California. It is no coincidence that the most successful French exports are leading brands from Champagne and Cognac, completely clued-in to the modern way of selling.
The problems with the French wine industry are legion and well-rehearsed. The producers are often too small and fragmented to make wine in the quantities required and to generate the cash needed for big promotions. The style of wines are not necessarily consumer-friendly; too tannic, acidic or dry. They may be made to go with food, but today's imbiber wants a stand-alone alcoholic drink. Too often, they're produced with the attitude, "we've always made it this way, so take it or leave it".
The labelling doesn't help, either. There is little or nothing to break down the language barrier, nor does it communicate anything other than a place name. If the French themselves don't understand them, how can we English? There is a clear requirement to convey the grape variety, but this is prevented by red-tape. Moreover, the appellation laws are entrenched in the concept of terroir, which may guarantee authenticity, but not quality.
French winemakers are currently facing the double-whammy of declining domestic consumption and a falling share in export markets due to increased competition. Times are hard for traditional winemakers and many are close to bankruptcy. A more modern and flexible approach is required.
Against this background, Pascal Renaudat has stepped forward as a potential saviour, by unashamedly imitating the New World stratagem. Ironically, after making his fortune distributing Italian and Spanish wines in France, he has now created Opera Vins et Spiritueux (OVS), with the aim of winning back consumers in their biggest export markets, namely the UK and USA.
Representing some 13,000 vine-growers, he has formed a federation comprising some 10 leading co-operatives across the length and breadth of France. Among them are such names as Val d'Orbieu, Producteurs Bordeaux and Celliers des Dauphins, and altogether, they account for around 75% of the shareholding.
The size of the operation gives OVS the highest production potential in France, and is the springboard for the launch of the French-based Chamarré (pronounced Sha-ma-ray). The concept turns French winemaking on its head, by eschewing the concepts of Chateaux and terroir, instead creating a product based on consumer taste and, horror of horrors, inter-regional blending, overseen by winemaker Renaud Rosari. The whole operation is more flexible and more responsive to the preference of the modern consumer.
The name, of course, has been carefully chosen following market research. Chamarré means "bursting with colour", as well as the species of butterfly adopted as its logo. The key point is that the wines are easy to drink and understand, and made that bit more palatable, with a dollop of residual sugar.
At entry level, the blends use one dominant grape, with a second to add complexity. I tried the Colombard/Sauvignon Blanc, a crisp, clean, slightly herbaceous white, and the Cabernet/Grenache, which had delicious black fruit, with a satisfying mouthfilling texture. Both wines retail at £4.99, reduced to £3.99 on promotion.
The "R6 Signature" blend (£5.99, £4.49 on promotion) is a blend of 4 red varietals, with red and black fruit, developing into a full, lingering finish. At the top end is the 2003 Bordeaux Tradition, which is fresh and structured, with juicy blackcurrant and plums. It's an excellent generic at this price-level (£6.99, £4.99 on promotion).
I also sampled their Grande Reserve, a 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, destined for the US market. Full-bodied and polished, with little or no structure, I quickly lost interest. I was told it was very popular in taste-trials with UK consumers, but then what do I know? I'm only a wine-writer.
Stockists include Morrisons, Somerfield, Asda, Co-op and Threshers.