Champagne may be the world's most instantly recognisable sparkling wine, but in some ways, it's the least understood. Contrary to popular belief, Champagne is made from black grapes as well as white but, more significantly, the name is not simply a generic term, but a protected name for sparkling wine from grapes grown within a specific, legally defined area.
The perception in the UK is that champagne is dominated by the Grandes Marques and such names as Moet, Mumm and Veuve Clicquot, amongst others, readily spring to mind. This is hardly surprising, as these great houses are largely responsible for around two-thirds of total sales, and 90% of exports.
Some 250 major Champagne houses rely on around 15,000 independent growers, who own 90% of the vineyards. As the bigger producers can only supply around 15% of their own needs, it follows that there is a mutual inter-dependence. This is officially recognised by the CIVC, Champagne's own marketing arm, who appoint two chairmen, one for the growers, and the other for the Houses.
Whilst this is a comfortable arrangement, it happens to ignore the fact that there are approximately 5,000 producers who commercialise their own Champagne. Around 2,700 are members of co-operatives, but there are also some 2,300 vignerons who make wine purely from their own vines, and are termed Recoltant-Manipulants. Less well-known, these Recoltants can unlock the door to understanding the region, as well as supplying some keenly-priced sparkling wine of the highest quality.
By way of background, Champagne can be blended from three varieties, Pinot Noir giving richness and power, the second, Pinot Meunier, also black, provides earthy red-fruit characters and, finally, Chardonnay which lends structure and elegance. A typical non-vintage House Champagne may therefore comprise two-thirds black grapes and one-third white. Of course, there are exceptions; Blanc de Noirs is made entirely from black grapes, and Blanc de Blancs from Chardonnay.
The Champagne AOC comprises some 35,000 hectares neatly subdivided into 5 separate growing areas. The Montagne de Reims is famous for Pinot Noir, whereas the Cote des Blancs, south of Epernay is the location for Chardonnay. The less well-regarded Pinot Meunier thrives in the frost-prone Marne Valley, and the Cote de Sezanne is gaining importance for its whites. Finally, the Aube, somewhat further detached and close to Troyes, is best known for Pinot Noir.
The genius of the Champenois is to allow their larger producers the flexibility of sourcing their raw materials from throughout the entire region. The Negociant-Manipulant status means that the Grandes Marques can create their own brand, now an essential marketing tool in today's market.
Moreover, the producers are allowed to use reserve wines from previous vintages which allow them to iron out the inconsistencies from one vintage to the next. Best described as multi-vintage wines, these non-vintage blends make up the majority of Champagne sales and allow the negociants to create their own "house style".
To gain a real insight and understanding of Champagne, it is necessary to visit the region. The initial temptation is simply to go to the Grandes Marques, such as Taittinger or Veuve Clicquot in Reims or Moet in Epernay, where the Champagne process will be slickly and glossily explained by chic tour guides. This is only half the story, as one needs to find time to visit some growers.
Many of the smaller producers adopt their own individual approach and none more so than the "madman" of Avize, Anselme Selosse. A cult figure, he is a profoundly original thinker. He is a pioneer of biodynamism, an extreme form of organic farming, and is renowned for his oak-matured Champagne made using fully-ripe grapes and a non-interventional approach.
"My wines are like a wild child, and my job is simply to teach it manners and a vocabulary, so that it can communicate with others" Few winemakers are so clued up on terroir, and few use such studiously traditional methods. It's low-tech, using naturally wild yeasts to create spontaneous fermentation carried out in a variety of differently-sourced barriques. Selosse doesn't believe in "mono", and his wines have given Champagne a new dimension with their unique Chardonnay style. (UK agent Seckford Wines 01394 446622).
Larmandier-Bernier are located at the southern end of the Cote des Blancs in Vertus. The current proprietor is Pierre Larmandier, who claims to come from a family of "gentle madmen" and is unafraid to produce a Chardonnay-based blend to his own taste. His wines have a breathtaking purity, minerality and restraint. He believes that the big houses have stifled the individuality of terroir at the expense of the small quality-conscious growers (telephone 00033326521324, web: www.larmandier.fr).
Pierre Gimonnet are masters at exploiting the different characteristics of their extensive 26 hectare holdings. Exclusively Blanc de Blancs, the "Cuis" is minerally, "Chouilly" fruity and "Cramant" has more depth. Based at Cuis, just south of Epernay, their entire range is top-quality, yet keenly priced (telephone 00333.26597870, www.champagne-gimonnet.com).
By contrast, Jean-Francois Clouet is no fan of Chardonnay, as he considers it flat and one-dimensional. His terroir, located around the village of Bouzy, on the south-east facing slopes of the Montagne de Reims, is ideally suited to Pinot Noir (telephone 0033326570082).
Having learnt the art of making Champagne since childhood, Jean-Francois is extremely self-confident, notwithstanding his often outrageous ideas. He has specifically designed fermentation tanks for each vineyard parcel, and his latest project is to construct a panoramic visitor-centre.
The Bollinger-like Grand Reserve, from 100% Pinot Noir is full, rich and round, tasting of apple and breadcrumbs, and the Rosé is packed with red fruit. His prestige "Un Jour de 1911" is again Pinot Noir, from a blend of 3 years. Only 1911 bottles are produced each year with an identical label to the original in 1911. Clouet's wines are listed by Tanners (01743 234455).
Singled out by Champagne guru, Tom Stevenson, Vilmart are located in Rilly, on the northern escarpment of the Montagne de Reims. Contrary to expectation, the leading cuvees are centred on organically-grown Chardonnay, rather than Pinot Noir, and fermented in oak foudres and barriques. Now run by the self-effacing and charming Laurent Champs, their philosophy is to make "wine first, then bubbles". The range is exemplary in that the characters and flavours just build in the mouth. For details, visit www.champagnevilmart.fr (UK agents Gauntley Wines, Nottingham, tel: 0115.911 0355).
Champagne is the closest fine wine region to our shores, and is a must for enthusiasts. Reims is only 3 hours drive from Calais, or 45 minutes from Paris on the new TGV connection, offering the ideal opportunity of a short break.
Finally, a word of caution. The growers are small concerns, not set up to receive hordes of visitors, so to avoid disappointment and ensure courteous treatment, phone in advance to make an appointment. Dropping in unannounced during the sacred 2-hour lunch (12-2 pm) is a non-starter.
A useful independent travellers' guide is "Destination Champagne" by Philippe Boucheron (£18.99). Alternatively, click on www.champagne.fr, or e.mail info@civc.fr for more details.