©2007, The Birmingham Post
Not that I've counted, but there are over 2000 different grape varieties which can be used to make wine. Yet with so many different characters and tastes available, it seems a pity to limit ourselves to less than 10 big-hitters.
With regard to whites, the ubiquitous Chardonnay reigns supreme. It's a variety with a chameleon-like personality appearing in all manner of guises, arguably seconded by Sauvignon Blanc, with its mouthwatering gooseberry flavours, usually delivering what it says on the tin.
The third A-lister is Riesling, so beloved by wine connoisseurs, but not so with the wine-drinking public, many of whom are put off by the diesel characters which develop as it matures. Following on are the B-Celebs, such as Chenin Blanc from the Loire, Semillon from Bordeaux, and the latest kid-on-the-block, the once rare Viognier, at one time confined to the Northern Rhone.
Behind these six classics are a legion of C-listers, many still capable of producing great wine. The problem is to identify them, particularly when they are generically labelled according to their place of origin, as more often than not tends to be the case in France, and other traditional wine-producing nations.
For delivering value on a budget, you cannot beat the wines from South-West France, usually sold under the label of Vin de Pays des Cotes de Gascogne. Once a region renowned for the production of Armagnac, the local vignerons have turned to table wine as consumption of spirits has declined. The Wine Society's example (£4.50) made by the excellent Yves Grassa is deliciously fresh and easy-drinking, and comes from a blend of Ugni Blanc and Colombard. More interesting still is the Cotes de St. Mont, Les Vignes Retrouvees (from £5.25 M&S, Wine Society & Tanners), made from a blend of Gros Manseng, Arrufiac and Petit Courbu.
The Petit Manseng is particularly suited to making late-harvested sweet wine, and Yves Grassa's Les Dernieres Grives (the last thrushes) is a fine example. More recently, I was in raptures over the medium-sweet Domaine Cauhupe Symphonie de Novembre 2004 from Jurancon, with its spicy Seville-orange flavours and keenly poised acidity (CPH Calais).
Folle Blanche, once commonly used for Brandy, connects South-West France to the Languedoc, where it is rebranded as Picpoul de Pinet. It's the Mediterranean answer to Muscadet, with flinty, gunsmoke characters, though fuller-bodied, making it ideal with shellfish. Domaine Felines-Jourdain 2006 is a fine example (Wine Society £5.95).
In fact, the Mediterranean has a host of indigenous but anonymous varieties, which have only really come to the fore due to stainless-steel technology and temperature-controlled fermentation Hitherto, the wines had been flabby and oxidised, but new methods have allowed them to fulfil their true potential.
One particular variety worth seeking out is Roussanne, often hidden by an appellation label. Domaine Grand Cres Blanc 2005 (Tanners £10.30) is one such gem, with lime-blossom and honeysuckle characters.
There is no such problem identifying the variety in Alsace, where the name of the grape is always indicated on the label. Sylvaner, once a workhorse grape, is nowadays the least well-regarded, so it was with some trepidation that I tried Domaine Weinbach's 2004 (CPH Calais £8.85). Supremely stylish, it has characters of new-mown hay, lime fruit and spice.
By contrast, Austria's signature grape, Gruner Veltliner is now achieving wider recognition, and rightly so. The closest equivalent is Pinot Grigio, only with real personality. The Wine Society's Exhibition 2006 by Brundlemeyer (£9.95) is a superb example, with pungent spiced green pear fruit, wrapped around a spine of acidity.
Southern Italy and Sicily, too, can boast some unique varieties. The Grillo grape is a staple of Marsala, but has been used to good effect in the Lamura 2005 (Oddbins). Selling at a bargain £4.19, it's highly quaffable, with flavours of green plums and spice.
Also from Sicily is the Fiano Mandrarossa (£5.25 Wine Society), a melange of green apple, oil and spice. Waitrose, too, list the highly-rated Fiano de Avellino 2006 (£9.99).
Like Sicily, Spain has also benefitted from modern techniques, and perhaps the region which has most come to the fore for its whites is Galicia, with a culinary tradition of Atlantic seafood. The region, known as Rias Baixas, relies on the splendid Albarino grape, characterised by lime-zest with zippy freshness.
Pazo de Senorans (Wine Society, Connollys £9.50-£10.75) is a classy example, but failing that, try the Martin Codax version (S. H. Jones, Leamington Spa). From the same region, and best enjoyed young is the lesser-known Godello grape, used to produce Gaba do Xil 2006 (Wine Society £6.50).
Finally, from the volcanic island of Santorini, the Hatzidakis Winery produce a stunning white based on Assyrtiko. The 2005 has a honeyed ripeness, transforming to a minerally dry finish. Wonderful with fish, it's listed by the Wine Society (£8.95) and Waitrose.