©2007, The Birmingham Post
Didier Dagueneau may be one of France's greatest winemakers, but he is also a bit of a rebel. Now in middle-age, he still sports a bright yellow bandanna to tame his shoulder-length hair, and still counts Che Guevara amongst his heroes.
His appearance, though, belies a revolutionary approach that has taken the Sauvignon Blanc grape into another dimension. Based in the AOS Pouilly-Fumé, his famous cuvees are called Pur Sang (Pure Blood) and Silex (Flint) which, against type, have undergone barrel-fermentation where those around him have persisted with stainless steel. Thus, whilst there is still precise definition and focus, his methods have introduced a layered complexity to a grape unfairly criticised as a one-trick pony.
Across the river lies the pretty hilltop village of Sancerre. Decimated by the vine-louse Phylloxera in the late 19th century, the wines did not recover until the 1950s, when they regained a foothold in the Parisian bistros. From there, the popularity spread across the Channel and, today, the UK remains the leading export market.
Arguably, Sancerre is the definitive expression of Sauvignon Blanc. It's minerally and angular, often with grassy, elderflower characters. The fruit is subdued, taut and lean, particularly when compared to the more muscle-bound New World competitors from, say, New Zealand.
Geologically, the wines benefit from three soil types, resulting in different characters. The first is Caillottes, a pebbly-limestone that gives a lighter, fresher style; the second is Terres Blanches, a limestone-clay that produced a fuller, richer, more long-lived wine; and third is Silex, whereby the flint gives notes of gun-flint and minerals It is therefore the genius of the winemaker to combine or separate these characters to produce the blend of his choice.
As a proportion of total production, Sauvignon Blanc accounts for around 80% of the region, with the balance made up of red and rosé from Pinot Noir. Whilst the Rosé has generally been acceptable, if not expensive, then the red is often thin, sour and light. Moreover, the popularity of Sancerre has been its own worst enemy, where poorly-made wines have been sold at excessive prices.
Of course, there are reliable versions, but a recent visit revealed that the best producers have upped their game. The clean, fresh style may be the accepted norm, but the use of oak is no longer frowned upon (if only for fermentation), creating a more complex, less fruity style, capable of development and ageing.
Alphonse Mellot (Nickolls & Perks 01384.394518) have been making wine for 19 generations, since 1530. The family tradition is to call the first-born son Alphonse, but there is nothing traditional about their winemaking. Biodynamic (organic, but more extreme) in their approach since 1999, each vineyard plot is vinified separately.
There is judicious use of oak for both whites and reds. The whites show increasing complexity and sophistication, giving spice and tropical fruit characters. Moreover, the reds are now revealing levels of concentration and elegance hitherto unheard of. The current Alphonse explained that, to make great Pinot Noir, you required low yields. The problem is that most producers allow yields to rise to a level ideal for Rosé, but not red.
The long-established house of Vacheron follow a similar approach, but the style is a little lighter and more elegant. The Domaine Sancerre Rouge and Blanc show great finesse, but the premium blends, "Les Romains" white and "Belle Dame" red provide extra weight and intensity (Majestic, Wine Society).
The third member of this "holy trinity" is Henri Bourgeois at Chavignol. This dynamic family has expanded from 2 hectares in 1950 to around 65 hectares today, and produces benchmark Sancerre at a number of different quality levels. In the 1980s, Bourgeois were pioneers in the use of oak for Sauvignon Blanc, and the ageing of wine to develop its separate characters.
La Vigne Blanche is crisp, light, minerally and elegant, but at the upper end of the scale, their wines are capable of developing real complexity, such as their cuvees "Jadis", "D'Antan" and "Etienne Henri". Incidentally, those on a budget should try the entry level "Le Petit Bourgeois", a cracking Vin de Pays that does exactly what it says on the tin (Connollys 0121.236.9269).
Outside of Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé are a handful of satellite AOCs which do not share the same cachet, and hence can fetch a lower price. As a generalisation, these tend to be a little lighter and more high-toned, but show similar attributes.
The largest is Menetou-Salon, where Henri Pellé at Morogue is a leading player. Their wines are listed by Oddbins, Waitrose and the Wine Society amongst others, from around £7.99.
As the soil composition in Quincy and Reuilly changes to gravels and sands, so does the ability to imitate the finest Sancerre. Nevertheless, the best producers can always craft some magic, evidenced by the enchanting Domaines des Ballandors by Gerard Bigonneau (Majestic £8.49).