©2008, The Birmingham Post
It is often said that imitation is the sincerest form of flattery. Such is the legacy of French wine that its grape varieties and techniques have been slavishly copied across the globe.
Still the world's leading producer at the top level, its New World counterparts have stolen a march by simplifying the labelling. While leading French wines are allied to the hidebound appellation controllee laws (AOC), its rivals simply rely on the names of grape varieties, and to add insult to injury, they're usually French.
To the uninitiated, these AOC laws appear impossible to fathom. They are based upon an understanding of "terroir", an entirely Gallic notion that encapsulates a belief in the uniqueness of a vineyard in terms of climate, soils, exposure, drainage and grape varieties. Frankly, for most people, life's too short for a grounding in terroir - little wonder, then, that France has slipped behind Australia in the UK's popularity stakes.
Yet turn the subject on its head, and suddenly you have the key to the door. Why not copy the New World approach to French wine and simply associate the grape variety with the AOC? After a little trial and error, it's not an insurmountable hurdle.
Any fan of Cabernet or Merlot should make a beeline for Bordeaux, and it need not be expensive. An impressive pair at under a fiver are Chateau Prince Noir 2005 (Asda £4.98) and Chateau Chadeuil 2004 (www.bordeaux-undiscovered.co.uk £4.85, by case only). The more sophisticated pairing of the Haut-Medoc Chateau Bernadotte 1999 (£15.80 Tanners) and Chateau d'Agassac (£15.30 Tanners), will impress your dinner-party guests.
Whilst Argentine Malbec may be receiving plaudits in the press, it is easy to overlook its region of origin, Cahors. In the wrong hands, this can be thin, hard and austere, but modern methods have awakened new interest. A stunning, great value, example, is Clos La Coutale 2005, with wonderfully pure bramble fruit and velvet tannins (£5.95 Wine Society, 01438 741177, £8.15 Nicolas).
The Southern Rhone is the homeland for Grenache-based blends, whereas the Northern Rhone is Syrah(aka Shiraz). From the south, I recently enjoyed Tanners Rhone Valley 2005 (£7.80) and Les Hauts de Gramenon 2005 (£12.95), both laden with vibrant peppery raspberry fruit. From the north, there is the raspberry and black-chocolate Domaine Mucyn 2005 (£6.50 Tanners), and St. Joseph Offerus (£15.20 Tanners), with subtle hedgerow fruit.
Languedoc-Roussillon follows a similar pattern, relying on Syrah and Grenache. L'Opera 2004 and Chateau Villerambert-Julien 2002 (£6.70 and £10.40 Tanners), are shining examples from the same estate, one without and one with oak influence.
Burgundy can appear amazingly complicated but, in reality, there's nothing to fear. The whites are from Chardonnay and the reds Pinot Noir. If the Chardonnay is unoaked, it might be from Chablis. Try William Fevre for size (Majestic £9.99). Macon is a wonderful source of great-value whites, but for a real treat, try Guerrin's Pouilly-Fuisse 2005 (£11.70 Tanners). Red Burgundy is more problematic, but Prunier's Hautes Cotes de Beaune (£9.80 Tanners), or Marsannay 2005 by Meo-Camuset (£20.60 Tanners) will both give satisfaction.
The Loire Valley is better-known for its whites, which are commonly based on two varieties. The more popular Sauvignon Blanc can appear in the guise of Sancerre or Pouilly-Fume, and amongst the leaders is Vacheron's La Reine Blanche (£11.95 Wine Society), but Neveu (£9.99 Majestic) is a reliable benchmark.
The lesser-appreciated Chenin Blanc can be used in all manner of styles, from dry, sweet, or sparkling under the labels Anjou, Coteaux du Layon or Vouvray. For a classy, bone-dry style, try La Jalousie Savennieres (£11.95 Tanners), which is fresh and focussed, with minerally quince-pear fruit, wrapped in a coating of cream.
Champagne needs no introduction, but can be made from a blend of white Chardonnay or two blacks, Pinots Noir and Meunier. I adore Growers' Champagne, and the full-blown Andre Clouet Grande Reserve is perfect over the winter months (£16.95 Tanners). For a special treat, though, the Louis Roederer 2000 (£49.99 Majestic, Selfridges and House of Fraser) is out of this world. It's Champagne at its best, and is absolutely seamless.
Finally, there is Alsace, the only French region that requires the grape on the label. I find the name Trimbach consistently reliable, and the Wine Society list their excellent Riesling 2005 for £9.95.