©2008, The Birmingham Post
Paradoxically, Chile enjoys a reputation as a modern, dynamic wine-producer, yet grapes have been grown there for around 500 years, when the Conquistadors first brought over cuttings from Spain, to make sacramental wine. The seeds of the modern winemaking industry, though, were planted in the mid-19th century, when wealthy businessmen turned to France as a model, adopting French vines and wine- making techniques.
Chile profited in the late 19th century, when European vineyards were devastated by Phylloxera, the vine louse, whereby the Pacific Ocean, the Andes and the Atacama Desert provided natural barriers against its disastrous spread. Besides, the pest cannot tolerate the flood irrigation methods used in the absence of regular rainfall.
Almost uniquely, Chile is one of the few regions worldwide where grapes are still planted on ungrafted rootstock. Elsewhere, all vines are grafted onto American rootstock, which can tolerate the louse.
After languishing in the doldrums for nearly 100 years , a second coming occurred in the 1980s, following an increased demand for red wine, particularly in California. It followed a health study now known as "The French Paradox", whereby Frenchmen in South-West France, who ate heavily saturated fats and smoked heavily, were found to suffer from a lower incidence of heart disease than their Northern European counterparts. The main difference in the diet was the consumption of red wine, and this was believed to stave off coronary problems.
Following massive investment, the industry has taken off, and export growth over the past 10 years has almost been exponential. Consumers have discovered that Chilean wines have been reliable, and delivered consistently good value. Their leading brands, such as Concha y Toro, are not just well-priced, but actually produce interesting wines. Moreover, leading European winemakers and consultants are now making wines in Chile, such as Michel Rolland from Bordeaux and Torres from Spain, demonstrating the country's potential.
At present, there are 177,000 hectares under vine, with red wine accounting for around 75% of total production. By far the most important varietal is Cabernet Sauvignon, but there are significant plantings of Merlot and Syrah.
Chile has its own unique variety, too, Carmenere. Emanating from Bordeaux, it's a grape that was discarded as being difficult and late-ripening. In Chile, it was mistakenly labelled as Merlot, until it was rediscovered in the early 1990s, when a cutting was sent to a Bordelais viticulturalist, who identified it correctly. Now heralded as the flagship varietal, in the wrong hands it is somewhat gauche, and generally works best a part of a blend of Cabernet and Merlot, rather than used alone.
In terms of marketing, Chile has adopted the highly successful brand-led strategy, originally focussing on the four classics, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. Over the past decade, the producers have been diversifying, introducing Pinot Noir, Syrah, Riesling and Viognier, amongst others.
At over 3000 miles in length, Chile offers an amazingly diverse climate. Originally vine-growing was centred around the capital, Santiago, but increasingly, winemakers are achieving better results by matching the grape variety to the appropriate terroir. For example, Syrah is performing well in the hot and dry Aconcagua, Cabernet in Maipo and Rapel, Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay in the cooler Casablanca Valley, and Bio-Bio is now noted for its Pinot Noir.
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