©2007, The Birmingham Post
Italy has a unique wine heritage. It boasts literally hundreds of its own indigenous grape varieties, and has classic wine regions to rival the best of Bordeaux and Burgundy. Yet, for too long, Italy has remained under the shadow of France, partly due to poor winemaking practices and a haphazard approach to marketing and distribution. Within the past generation or so, Italy has, at long last, begun to punch its weight. After all, didn't the Romans teach the Gauls how to make wine in the first place?
Italy has long had a reputation for producing wine on an industrial scale. Since the last war, the emphasis was on quantity, not quality, and vineyards migrated off the hills to the valleys, to capitalise on greater yields and mechanical farming techniques. Headache-inducing Soave, Valpolicella and Chianti were a familiar feature of my student days.
Over the past 20 years, there has been a revolution in quality. In the vineyards, top winemakers have been returning to the best sites and seeking out the most suitable clones. Vine densities have been increased, but the yield reduced per vine to create more flavour concentration. International varieties have become more commonplace, and are frequently used in blends to supplement the shortcomings of the native varieties.
At the winery, there is now greater emphasis on hygiene and the widespread use of temperature-controlled fermentations. Significantly, the giant Slovenian oak vats have been replaced with small smaller French oak barriques. The overall improvement has been simply astonishing, not just for reds, but for whites, too.
Early in March, I attended the Birmingham leg of the Berkmann Tour of Britain, where they showcased a number of leading Italian producers, for which they have the sole UK distribution rights. Whilst not a household name, Berkmanns are highly respected within the restaurant trade and, last year, acquired Birmingham's own Churchill Vintners in a smart move for both parties.
Their star attraction is undoubtedly Antinori, one of Italy's largest and most prestigious family estates. They created the original "Super-Tuscan" Tignanello back in 1971, from a blend of Sangiovese with around 20% Cabernet Sauvignon. Now retailing at over £50, the 2004 is complex and built to last.
For those with less deep pockets, the Villa Antinori Rosso is a more commercial style, based on Sangiovese, but with around 40% Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. It's deep and concentrated, yet fresh with that classic nutty finish. International in style, but 100% Italian, it sells in Waitrose and Sainsbury for around £9.99.
For the more traditionally minded, the Badia a Passignano Chianti Classico Riserva (£26.49) has fresh, sour-cherry fruit, seasoned with coconut and vanilla. From 100% Sangiovese, it's a perfect marriage of fruit and oak.
Antinori also own the reputed house of Prunotto, based in Piedmont. The Barbaresco 2004 (£20.79) is from a superb vintage, which has given the plummy Nebbiolo fruit superb structure. Well worth decanting for two hours before serving, this has ageing potential.
The lesser-prized Barbera grape can also make a superb wine in the right hands. The Pian Romualdo 2003 from Alba has that characteristic high acidity and sour-plum fruit, given added interest by tobacco and liquorice.
Puglia, in the heel of Italy, is a prime source of bulk blending wine, but standards have improved significantly. Aglianico is a classic rugged Southern variety, and the Bocca de Lupo 2003 (£16.79) has robust earthy tannins to counteract the ripe plum fruit. A second variety, Negroamaro, meaning "black bitter" can produce wines of outstanding complexity and Masseria Maime 2004 (£17.29) is a vibrant blend of black fruit and sweet oak.
To the south lies Sicily, where the outstanding red variety is Nero d'Avola. A supreme example is Rosso del Conte 2004 (£26.49) with concentrated flavours of black fruit, spice and tar.
Modern winemaking techniques have particularly benefited Italian whites, preserving their flavour and freshness and none more so than those from regions such as Campania. Mastroberadino produce three crackers. Their Sannio Falanghina 2006 (£9.99) has minerally peach and pear flavours, whereas the Nova Serra Greco di Tufo 2006 (£12.49) is more muted and round, with a creamy nutty finish. The Fiano di Avellino Radici 2006 (£12.99) is very expressive, with marked spice and hazelnut characters to complement the peach flavour.
The theme is continued in Umbria, where I was particularly taken by the Vitiano Bianco 2006 (£7.49), a blend of Vermentino from the Mediterranean, and Verdicchio from the Adriatic. Again, crisp minerally pear fruit came to the fore, developing that characteristically nutty finish.
Look out, too, for some fascinating new wines from Sardinia. Produced by Pala, the S'arai 2004 (£17.99) is a stunning blend of Grenache, Carignan and Mourvedre, that sings with red and black fruits infused with herbs from the garrigue.
For further details, contact Berkmann Wine Cellars, 0207.609.4711, or Churchill Vintners 0121.356.8888.