©2006, The Birmingham Post
The Australian wine industry is dominated by a few giant corporations. Over recent decades, there has been a constant battle involving take-overs, mergers and buy-outs, with the big players ever-increasing the size of their portfolios. Last year, for example, saw the takeover of Southcorp by the brewing giant, Fosters, thus combining the household names of Wolf Blass, Lindemans, Penfolds and Rosemount under one roof.
Hardy's Constellation brands are now the world's largest wine corporation and, after taking into consideration Jacob's Creek (owned by Pernod Ricard), 6 out of the top UK wine labels are now Australian. Such is their importance that Australia continue to remain the UK's favourite, with some 23% of total market share and sales with a value of over £920 million per annum.
The relentless triumph of the Australian wine industry is not without its downside. Whilst the consumer has benefited from an endless stream of sales promotions and BOGOF's (Buy One, Get One Free), profits have plummeted and, in tough trading conditions, with a need to exercise cost-cutting measures, it has been a difficult task maintaining quality.
It was therefore a refreshing change to meet Nick Dunning of the Boutique Wine Company, an internet sales outfit, specializing in select Australian fine wine. Nick established his business last May, having previously worked in sales and marketing in Eastern Europe for the tobacco giant, Rothmans.
His enthusiasm for wine was kindled some 5 years ago, whilst on a trip to Australia. On an internal flight from Sydney, he was given a "Grey Label" Wolf Blass Shiraz, and was blown away by its flavour and intensity. He wanted to pursue it further and learn more, to the extent that he eventually decided to withdraw from corporate life, and pursue a career in the wine trade.
Nick did not take up the challenge lightly. He passed his WSET exams and spent 5 weeks with the International Wine Challenge, honing his palate. Initially, he was looking or a business to buy, but an intermediary put him on contact with Australian Prestige Wines, an agency for boutique wineries.
Nick has now decided to ship and distribute their wines in the UK. Having travelled and tasted extensively in the Australian regions, Nick was aware that there were a significant number of relatively unknown winemakers who were producing remarkable wine and were eager to establish a reputation. He soon realised that this could be the beginning of a quest to create a niche market for handcrafted, small production wines, shunning the monotonous big brands which dominate the UK supermarkets and High Street.
In creating his range, Nick wanted to explore the differences in regions, soils and climate, and list wines which respect their origins. Although the range does include the usual blockbusters, he is also looking for refinement and elegance.
The aim is not to compete with the supermarkets, but to look at small volumes. The wines themselves vary in price between £6.50 and £30, and are only available by the case, through his mail-order company. So far, the reaction has been favourable, particularly from small independents and restaurants, who are looking for something unique and exclusive.
Nick invited me to try a selection from his range, and my first reaction to the Thistle Hill Riesling 2002 (£13) from Mudgee in New South Wales, was positive. By an organic producer, it was minerally, tasting of juicy limes, with good balance between fruit and acidity.
It is his range of reds, though, which really catch the eye. The Eden Park Pinot Noir (£8.50) is made by an Australian College of Wine. There is plenty of Pinot character, having juicy, soft red fruit, with a pleasant mouthfeel and texture. It's a good price, too.
The 2003 Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon (£18) from Will Taylor, is simply outstanding. It's made by a solicitor who specializes in wine law, and his wine is rich, dark and concentrated. There is menthol, spice and black fruit, with a backnote of minerality, giving way to ripe tannins, indicating excellent ageing potential.
From the Barossa, the God's Hill "Permanent Arm" Cabernet Sauvignon 2002 (£22.50) reveals a different style. It's more rounded and fuller, with a more toasty, burnt character.
The reputation of red Australian wine is based on Shiraz, and the Legend Wines Shiraz 2000 (£6.50) from Victoria, offers remarkable value. It has rich black fruit, spice, soft ripe tannins, and a leathery dry finish.
In a different class, the Wayne Thomas McLaren Vale Shiraz 2003 (£14.42) is a good old-fashioned blockbuster. There is rich black fruit, spice and dark chocolate with a long, lingering finish. Although not tasted, Nick also lists a rare "Best in Show" Petit Verdot (£19) by the same producer.
Another prizewinner is Gavin Hogg, previously from Mildara Blass, the brains behind the Kopparossa Coonawarra Shiraz 2002 (£22). It shows real dimension with sweet toasty and tarry fruit. In contrast, God's Hill "Menzel" 2002 (£30) is a big bruising classic Barossa Shiraz, with plenty of chocolate and toast.
The wines listed by the Boutique Wine Company make a refreshing change from the usual mass-market brands, and Neil has certainly honed in on a specialist area. All wines are sold by the unmixed case, but in addition to simply supplying wines, he will also run tastings for clubs, private parties or corporate events, which is a super way to taste them before buying.
For more information, contact The Boutique Wine Company, 162 Adnit Road, Northampton NN1 4NL, tel: 01604.638280, or visit: www.boutiquewinecompany.co.uk