©2006, The Birmingham Post
There is no better way to educate your palate than to attend a wine-tasting. In simple terms, you can decide for yourself your likes and dislikes and, usually at a reasonable cost, try a range of between 6 and 8 wines, all for the price of a single bottle.
The event will invariably be brought to life by an entertaining speaker, who can provide a background story, and bring out the various characteristics and flavours of the wine. It's a fun way of improving your knowledge and, with a friend or two in tow, can become an enjoyable social event.
Here in Birmingham, both the House of Fraser and Connolly's host regular monthly tutored tastings for the benefit of their customers. These offer a unique opportunity to speak directly to members of the trade and keep abreast of developments in the wine world
Invited by House of Fraser to present an Australian Masterclass, Chris Unger has a background in viticulture and winemaking. He currently represents Negociants UK, agents for Yalumba and other leading South Australian wineries.
Chris began by extolling the virtues of Australian wine which now accounts for a 28% market share in the UK. The reason is simple, easy-to-understand labelling, combined with consistently reliable wines.
The Australian climate is relatively stable compared to the classic European regions, but their winemakers have stayed at the cutting edge, wholeheartedly embracing the latest technology to achieve the best results for their product.
Located in the Barossa Valley, the Yalumba winery has remained under the ownership of the Hill-Smith family since its foundation in 1849 and is today one of South Australia's most successful medium-sized companies. In addition to providing wines under their own label, they have enjoyed considerable success with their sparkling Angas Brut and Oxford Landing series. Yalumba also operate three separate estates including Heggies in the nearby, but cooler Eden Valley.
The Barossa Valley was originally settled by German-speaking Silesians in the mid-19th century, so it is not surprising that Riesling has a long tradition. Although unfairly derided due to its close association with poor-quality German wine, Riesling is regarded as the "Holy Grail" by wine connoisseurs, and remains very much the product of where it is grown.
The Mesh Eden Valley Riesling 2005 (£12.50) is a joint venture between Jeffrey Grosset, the "King of Riesling" and Robbie Hill-Smith of Yalumba. Fresh and crisp, it's medium-bodied with minerally lime-citrus flavours and would prove ideal with lightly spiced Oriental cuisine.
Presented in a screwcap bottle,Yalumba were pioneers in the use of a "Stelvin", now demonstrated to be the best form of closure for aromatic white varieties. In addition to removing the problems of cork taint, the screwcap enables the wine to stay fresher over a longer period, and gives more consistent results by eliminating bottle variation.
Australian Chardonnay has progressed a long way since its introduction in the 1980s. The crude flavours of mango and tinned peaches, vanilla and toast have been refined, although the Barossa style is still full-bodied and high in alcohol.
The World of Food Chardonnay 2003 (£9.95) shows commendable oak restraint, emphasising the peach and melon fruit, but still with a thick buttery texture. By contrast, the Heggies Eden Valley 2004 (£9.50) is more typical, with pronounced vanilla, cream and toasty characters. Neither wine was to my taste.
The Australians are never afraid to borrow a good idea and the Yalumba Hand-Picked Shiraz/Viognier 2004 (£14.25) is a textbook copy of a Cote Rotie. Both grapes emanate from the Northern Rhone, whereby the addition of around 5% of white Viognier gives an aromatic lift and vibrancy to the Shiraz.
The secret is that the varieties are co-fermented, rather than blended in separately as finished wines. The fruit is sourced from the Eden Valley and the final result shows a lightness of touch and elegance, not often associated with a South Australian Shiraz.
On the palate, there were blackberries seasoned with woodshavings, with a splendid follow-through and length on the palate. I thought this a really classy wine.
To mature their premium wines, Yalumba use barrels made by their own cooperage, from imported oak staves, to allow greater control. Naturally, these are used for the "Menzies" 2000 (£18.95), an outstanding example from the Coonawarra, now regarded as the Australian home of Cabernet Sauvignon.
It's grown on a special red terrain known as terra rossa, comprising a crumbly loam overlying a limestone base. The result is classically bright blackcurrant, infused with mint and eucalyptus. This example typifies the style, with the additional bonus of woodshavings and, unlike some, has a strong middle palate. Incidentally, the wine takes its name from a former Australian Prime Minister, Robert Menzies, who adored Coonawarra reds.
The grapes for the Signature Barossa Cabernet/shiraz 2005 (£18.95) are sourced from two "old vine" parcels in the Barossa and Eden Valleys. It's dark and brooding, with the Shiraz adding richness and length to the Cabernet, tasting of delicious blackcurrant and blackberry fruit enriched by toasty oak.
According to my reckoning, the approximate value of the wines tasted were over £84 and, as far as my personal preferences were concerned, I enjoyed the Riesling and the Signature, thought the Shiraz/Viognier and Menzies were outstanding, but remained unimpressed by the Chardonnays. Our speaker, Chris, was knowledgeable and passionate, and, on the social side, struck up a lively conversation with a fellow taster. Not bad value for a tenner.
For details of future events, contact the World of Food information desk, or ask at the Wine Shop at House of Fraser Birmingham. Tickets are priced at £10 per person.