©2006, The Birmingham Post
"Brave New World" by Malcolm Gluck (£20 Mitchell Beazley) Within the wine world, Malcolm Gluck is a figure who thrives on controversy. A man of decided opinions, he's a maverick who takes few prisoners, and certainly doesn't suffer fools.
In his latest work, "Brave New World", Gluck raises the temperature on the debate "nature or nurture". He sees the winemaker as the crucial element in the "soul of wine" and merely regards the vineyards as supplying the raw materials.
When it comes to respecting tradition or terroir, Gluck goes into denial. He celebrates the freedom and honesty of New World winemakers, allowed to plant any variety they choose, and in any style they want.
Yet Gluck alienates, by disparaging those who dare accept the conventional wisdom that a wine's character is fundamentally based on its origins. According to him, people who have the temerity to accept such a notion, are gullible fools.
His prose is, as ever, excellent, but the content found wanting. Comprising a series of potted biographies on leading New World producers, the substance is all too lightweight to add to our understanding of a subject that has been better researched elsewhere. So, while Mr. Gluck appears to have enjoyed himself enormously conducting his research, regrettably, there is little of value to the wine enthusiast, other than a wind-up.
"Wines of Italy" by Michele Shah (£9.99 Mitchell Beazley) Over the past 20 years, the face of Italy has been transformed into one of the world's most exciting and original wine-producing countries. The rate of change has been enormous, with the latest generation of talented winemakers producing a new range of wine styles, from both native and international varieties.
Within this context, enthusiasts will therefore welcome Michele Shah's new and revised edition of "Wines of Italy", following on from the blueprint drawn up originally by Burton Anderson. The format, now larger than pocket-size is easy to follow and, in addition to providing a straightforward guide to the regions, producers and wines, offers travellers advice on local specialities, restaurants and accommodation.
"Hugh Johnson's Pocket Wine Book 2007" (£9.99 Mitchell Beazley) Now in its 30th year of publication, Hugh Johnson's "Pocket Wine Book" is the complete package and an essential reference work for any self-respecting wine-lover. The layout is tried and trusted, and the materials are continually updated by a team of over 30 researchers, specialists in their field. Containing everything you need to know, it's unsurprising that this evergreen perennial is the best-selling wine book of all time.
"Wine Made Easy" edited by Susy Atkins (£10 Mitchell Beazley) Beginners' guides are two-a-penny, so do we need to bother with another one? With wine sales ever increasing, the answer must be a resounding "yes", as more and more people are drinking wine. Certainly a little more knowledge would enhance their pleasure enormously, particularly as the subject can appear baffling or even intimidating.
"Wine Made Easy" is a fresh and clear approach, covering such topics as buying and storing wine, understanding the label and how to taste. More usefully, the key features are styles and grape varieties, plus an all-important section on food-and-wine matching, which should eliminate the fear factor.
Peppered throughout with useful tips, it occasionally resorts to making sweeping generalisations, which are not strictly accurate. To nitpick, for example, it claims the best dry Chenin in the Loire tends to be Savennières, but cheap Anjou Blanc can be dull or disappointing. Not entirely true, because, in my own experience, Savennières can be expensive and inconsistent, whereas cheap Anjou Blanc can offer excellent value.
That aside, it does exactly what it says on the tin, and the guide can greatly enhance the knowledge and enjoyment of the novice wine-lover. Moreover, this is a guide that, unlike others, won't date rapidly, and will remain a useful reference for many years to come.
"Bordeaux: Medoc and Graves" by Stephen Brook (£25 Mitchell Beazley) The wine culture of Bordeaux is complex and mystifying. It welcomes members of the trade and journalists, yet to the ultimate consumer, can appear cold and indifferent. In spite of this, Bordeaux remains the world's largest fine wine region and, whatever ones views on the subject, it cannot be ignored.
As far as tasting notes are concerned, the field has been well-covered by the likes of Robert Parker and Clive Coates amongst others, so Stephen Brooks' primary aim is to explain Bordeaux's wine culture, and take a critical look at the current situation of its main estates and their wines.
Topical issues are aired regarding the latest viticultural and vinicultural practices, such as leaf and bunch thinning to reduce yields and micro-oxygenation to soften tannins. Each is well-researched, with diverse input from leading protagonists.
The Chateaux are selected by a combination of reputation and personal choice, to provide a comprehensive gazette. In sum, a reference book for Bordeaux enthusiasts and specialists to be relied upon for years to come, establishing Brooks' place as a leading authority.
"Oz Clarke's Pocket Wine Book 2007" and "Wine-Buying Guide 2007" (Time Warner Books £9.99 & £6.99) Now in its 15th edition, "Oz Clarke's Pocket Wine Book 2007" maintains its position as an ideal portable guide. Packed with essential facts, it contains invaluable and up-to-date information on regions, grape varieties and, above all, producers.
The introductory sections cover wine-and-food matching, and give a succinct overview on the main wine-producing countries. Easy to digest, it's a great little reference work.
As an accompaniment, the "Wine-Buying Guide 2007" should eliminate the fear factor for the apprehensive consumer. Essentially, it's a list of Oz's top 250 wine buys, at all price levels, plus a retailers' directory of the best UK suppliers, highlighting their star wines.