©2006, The Birmingham Post
Rioja has a proud tradition. It is not simply the custodian of the Tempranillo grape, but a style of wine that has undergone long cask-ageing. It's no coincidence that the region boasts the world's largest barrel collection.
It is this heritage that has made Rioja one of the classic wine-producing areas, ranking alongside Bordeaux and Tuscany. Moreover, it is a position that Rioja is striving hard to maintain, fully conscious of the New World threat from Argentina and Australia, where Tempranillo is becoming increasingly popular.
Over the past 30 years, the style has undergone evolution, rather than revolution. Whilst oak and structure remains the signature, the modern trend is far higher fruit content to reflect the flavour profiles that Tempranillo has to offer.
Wood, though, has always played a prominent role and, in Rioja, the preference has been American oak, which by virtue of its coarser grain, offers more assertive qualities of vanilla, spice and cocoa, subduing the fruit. The modern trend has seen the increase in use of French oak, which allows a more fruit-driven style, albeit supported by firmer tannins and more pronounced toast.
The change, though, has not been confined to the winery. Traditionally, bodegas have sourced their grapes throughout the region and then blended them to produce a house style, similar in some ways to Champagne. The result has therefore been representative of Rioja, rather than an expression of a particular vineyard site.
Although these styles of wine continue to account for the major part of production, there has been an emergence of elite wines known as "Alta Expression" where grapes have been sourced from a single vineyard. These High Expression wines are made with loving care and attention to detail, but inevitably have a price-tag to match.
Xavier Martinez Blanco of Bodegas Corral has been selling wines to the UK for over 30 years, and recognises the change in consumer taste since the introduction of New World wines. He is aware of the need to remain loyal to the Rioja purist, and his Don Jacobo Gran Reserva, for example, is an elegant and old-fashioned style. Nevertheless, with an eye to the future, the bodega has created Altos do Corral, a single-estate reserve wine. It's in a modern style, but still maintains that Rioja personality.
The UK is Rioja's biggest export market and, during a recent visit to the region, it could be seen that confidence is burgeoning, particularly with regard to the investment in new state-of-the-art wineries. Most famous of all is the creation for Marques de Riscal by leading architect Frank Gehry, of Bilbao's Guggenheim Museum fame, where its titanium roof shimmers in the sunlight with colours of silver, gold, pink and purple.
At Ysios, now under the control of Pernod Ricard, the winery has a wavy crenulated aluminium roof, with a cathedral like centrefold, making a dramatic contrast to the surrounding vineyards and the Sierra Cantabria backdrop. Nearby, at Bodegas Baigorri, the owners have created a totally gravity-fed winery, constructed at 7 different levels within the hillside. It's so high-tech it looks like a James Bond movie set, with conical stainless-steel vats resembling rockets on a launchpad.
Arguably, the most impressive, certainly in terms of content, is the Dinastia Vivanco Wine Museum, near Briones, housing one of the world's most impressive collection of wine artefacts, collected by the owner, Pedro Vivanco and his son Rafael. Brilliantly designed, it incorporates a fully-fledged state-of-the-art winery, and is destined to become a "must-see" attraction for any self-respecting wine-lover. Initial estimates anticipated around 20,000 visitors a year, but the actual figure is well over 100,000.
There is an area east of Logrono, known as Los Tres Marqueses, in which Marques de Vargas is the pick. It's a single estate, supplying its own grapes with well-manicured vineyards and a smart modern bodega. The quality level is from Reserva upwards, and the entry level 2002 has firm structure, red and black fruit and a persistent finish. The style seamlessly demonstrates the crossover between old and new, as it is aged in French, American and Russian oak barrels.
Berry Brothers (www.bbr.com) list the 2001 at £17.95, but also stock their "High Expression", Hacienda Pradolagar 2001 at a whopping £125. Sourced from a single vineyard and aged in French and Russian oak, it's incredibly complex, with black berry fruit, leather and sawn-wood characters.
Although still producing traditional wines, Sierra Cantabria move up a gear with their more affordable High Expression styles. My choice for value is San Vicente 2003 (£17.14) although their entire range from Cuvee Especial (£9.40) to Finca El Bosque £36.72) is exceptional. (Seckford Wines 01394.446622).
Within the heart of the historic village of Briones, Finca Allende is at the cutting edge of new-wave Rioja, namely 100% Tempranillo aged exclusively in French oak. The super-premium Aurus is over £85, but the excellent Tinto Rioja 2000 has bright, cherry fruit, given added weight by cedar and tobacco (£13.95 BBR and Bennett's of Chipping Campden 01386.840392). The 2001 is simply marvellous.
Close by is the extremely personable Miguel Merino, owner of one of Rioja's smallest bodegas. He makes wines in both traditional ad modern styles, but again at Reserva level upwards, there is a trademark of fine elegance. For details contact their new UK agents, Pol Roger 01432.262800.
With its distinctive bottle, the Dinastia Vivanco's Crianza 2002 (£8.95) provides excellent value, with classic red fruits and ripe tannins, finishing with a lovely silky texture. It's simply a superb Crianza, but don't overlook their Reserva 1998 (£11.95) which is fuller, tasting of black cherries wrapped in velvet. (Bentleys of Ludlow, 01584.875520 or Bibendum 0207.449120)
As a premium wine-producing region, Rioja is fighting hard to stay ahead of the game. It has done so by maintaining its traditions and promoting Tempranillo but, at the same time, acknowledging market trends by producing wines of High Expression. It has become more democratic with something to suit all tastes and pockets.