Thierry Trigeau, Chef Sommelier at Simpson's Restaurant, Edgbaston

January 17, 2007
By Clive Platman

©2007, The Birmingham Post

Frenchman, Thierry Trigeau, 44, was born in Rouen and joined Simpson's, Birmingham's leading Michelin-starred restaurant, in January 2006, following previous experience in Bordeaux, Montreal and at Thornbury Castle near Bristol. He agreed to be interviewed by Clive Platman.

How did your interest in wine develop?

Wine has always been an integral part of my family life. My father was a hunter and my mother was a "bonne maman", a superb cook, who would turn the game that my father brought home, into delicious terrines and patés. Wine has always had its place on our table, and I enjoyed the fascination of matching food and wine, even at an early age.

What were your first great bottles and who influenced your early career?

My first great wines were a Meursault 1er Cru 1978, although I can't remember the producer, and a Brane-Cantenac 1982 Margaux. They really turned me on, but perhaps the greatest inspiration in my life was my teacher at wine school, some 25 years ago, Georges Lepré, Chef Sommelier at the Paris Ritz. He passed on his love of wine to me, and the message that, at heart, wine was a simple pleasure. He warned against being big-headed and pretentious, and reminded me that "the sommelier is the last cog in the machine. He is the person with the knowledge and his position is to serve the wine in its best condition".

You are from the world's foremost wine region, Bordeaux. Why choose England?

Without question, England is the world's leading wine market. It gives me a great opportunity to experience and discover wines from across the globe, and improve my knowledge. In France, we are very set in our ways and, although we produce a lot of wine, we tend to be narrow-minded and stick to our regional loyalties.

In what ways do your customers in Birmingham differ to those in Bordeaux?

I feel the atmosphere in England is much more informal and congenial, and certainly less competitive. The customers are less arrogant, too, and are more receptive to learning about wine and wine-matching suggestions.

What was the attraction of Simpsons?

I enjoyed my time at Thornbury Castle, but realised it was time to move on. I had increased the list from 200 to 400 bottles, but had taken it as far as I could go. Simpsons was a fantastic career opportunity. It was not simply a move to a Michelin-star restaurant, but it was a challenge to make the wine-list commensurate with the status of their cuisine.

So what have you done?

The owner, Andreas Antona, has placed his full confidence in me and given me a totally free hand. When I started, the wine-list consisted of 300 bins, but I have now increased it to 600, with the value of our cellar rising from £30,000 to £250.000. We have wines from as little as £22 a bottle, right up to our top wine costing £1300 but, more significantly, we now have some 28 different wines by the glass, from Champagne to dessert wine. It offers the customer much more flexibility and choice. I'm particularly pleased with the way the wines can interact with our special Seven-Course Tasting Menu.

Your wine list is still mainly French?

That's true, about 80% of the list is French, firstly because Andreas has a love affair with their food and wine, but more specifically, the wines simply work better with the cuisine.

I am fully aware that the wine list is not simply for my own pleasure or that of Andreas, otherwise life would be boring. Our passion and appreciation must be shared with our customers. My role as sommelier is to explain everything about the wine and food match to enhance their understanding and enjoyment.

Without question, the best wine I've got is a Chateau Margaux 1990. It's so powerful, with profound mushroom and moss flavours, but in terms of value, it must be La Conseillante 1985 Pomerol. The wine has a perfect silky texture, and flavours that just melt in the mouth.

What do you look for when choosing a wine for your list?

The problem with our profession is that the final selection is decided by margin. All the time, it's margin, but what's happened to passion? Even my lowest-priced wine is chosen on quality.

Are you satisfied?

Yes and no. I think we've come a long way in a short space of time, and the list now matches our Michelin-star status. I have around 25 suppliers, but the problem I have is sourcing mature wine that's developed in bottle. Too much that's available today is not at its best or ready for drinking.

I'd also like to broaden certain areas to achieve a wider price-band selection. For example, there are some great Bordeaux Cru Bourgeois and Petits Chateaux that offer excellent entry wines, and help educate to appreciate the wine-style without paying a fortune.

Do you think the size of the wine-list or your appearance can be offputting?

For sure, but I immediately try to put my customers at their ease, by greeting them with a friendly smile and adopting a non-confrontational approach. Too many sommeliers push hard on money, but not me. From our conversation, I try to gauge what the customer is happy to spend, and I make a recommendation according to his pocket.

Any final thoughts?

I'm very proud to be working with Andreas at Simpsons. He has put enormous trust in me and, as a result, we now have a wine selection to rival the best in Birmingham and the Midlands.