©2007, The Birmingham Post
Chenin Blanc is probably the most versatile grape in the world. With natural high acidity levels and good ripeness, it can produce sparkling, dry, off-dry, or sweet wines, which can range from medium-dry to intensely sweet. It's a grape that can age, too, developing great complexity with maturity.
The homeland, comprising Anjou, Saumur and Touraine, is the Central Loire region. In the past, its versatility has been its strength, as the style of wine could be adapted to suit the prevailing weather conditions. For example, if the fruit fails to ripen in a poor year, the high acidity is ideal for sparkling wine. Conversely, in a good botrytis vintage, the wine can be made lusciously sweet.
Like any good bookmaker, it's a sensible way to lay off the bets, but perhaps it is this lack of focus that makes the grape its own worse enemy. In an age where brand identity is all important, it is almost impossible to sell a wine dependent on the vagaries of nature. The consumer is simply bewildered and opts for a safer option.
Amongst the greatest expressions lie within the AOC Anjou, where the finest dry are labelled Savennieres, and the best sweet styles come from Coteaux du Layon , and its "Crus", Chaume, Quarts de Chaume and Bonnezeaux.
Savennieres is located on south-facing slopes on the north bank of the Loire, close to Angers. Traditionally, the style was austere, minerally and sometimes oxidative (sherry-like), usually requiring long ageing. The modern trend is for a more fleshy fruit-focussed wine that can be enjoyed almost immediately upon release.
Confusingly, Domaine du Closel and Chateau des Vaults are, in fact, one and the same property. The des Vaults estate was recorded in 1495, but renamed Closel by a previous owner. The current incumbent intends to revert to the original title.
The grapes for La Jalousie (the Jealousy) are sourced from a steep hillside site which affords good drainage, producing drier soils, and ripe fruit from the summer heat and sun. It's minerally, with pear fruit evolving to soft cream and nuts. At the property, I tasted the 2005 vintage, but Tanners (www.tanners-wines.co.uk) list the 2004 at £11.95.
Within Savennieres, there are two elevated status AOCs known as Cru. The first is Coulee de Serrant, a monopole of 7 hectares, exclusively owned by Nicolas Joly. The second is Roche-Aux- Moines (Monks' Rock) a 17-hectare vineyard with just three owners.
Nevertheless, Clos du Pipillon, so named because of its butterfly shape, is a third designated area that is capable of producing equally outstanding quality. Benefitting from volcanic soils, the version by Domaine du Closel is barrel-fermented. The 2005 is truly complex, with flavours of minerals, quince pear, cream and nuts. Again, the preceding vintage is listed by Tanners for £16.10.
If Savennieres produce the finest dry Chenin, then the best sweet wines come from across the river, within the Coteaux du Layon. Due to the microclimate of the River Layon, a Loire tributary, the autumnal morning mists and sunny afternoons are ideal for the development of botrytis cinerea, a benign fungus which shrivels the grapes, concentrating the sugars and acids.
Each bunch needs to be gathered at its optimum ripeness, so it is necessary to manually harvest the vineyards several times. The selection is referred to as a "trie" and, due to the high cost of labour, only the top estates can afford it.
Chateau de le Genaiserie is a late-18th century property, with a fine history and, in 2003, Frederic Julia, previously associated with Chateau Kirwan in Bordeaux, took over the reins. He grades his wines according to the number of tries, and the St. Aubin 2004 (property price 9.20 euros) has two, resulting in unctuous honey, apricot and spice flavours.
The product of three tries, Les Simonelles 2003 (13.75 euros), from a hot year, retains minerally freshness and his top cuvee, Les Tetueres, (16 euros) a Chaume Premier Cru, has four, resulting in flavours of honey and pineapple.
A property in the ascendancy, frustratingly I cannot source any UK listings, but click onto www.genaiserie.com for details.
To my mind, without question, the region's leading producer is the masterful Claude Papin, a man who is familiar with every square centimetre of his estate, Chateau Pierre-Bise. It takes its name from the volcanic rock known as "spilite" and his entire range, from a simple dry Anjou Blanc, to his top cuvee, Quarts de Chaume is exemplary.
The excellent mail-order specialists, Stone, Vine and Sun (01962.712351) carry the honeyed and floral Clos de la Soucherie 2003 (£11.95), the exquisitely balanced Rouannieres 2003 (£12.50) and the concentrated Quarts de Chaume 2003 (£17.95). Treat yourself.
Due to its versatility, food matching can appear perplexing. Nonetheless, dry Anjou Blanc goes well with river fish, such as carp, zander and salmon-trout, and the more expensive Savennnieres can be paired with grilled lobster, cooked oysters, scallops and lightly sauced chicken dishes. They also work well with goats' cheese.
The medium Coteaux du Layon can be matched with blue cheese, paté and goose, and desserts with high acidity, such as kiwi and apple tarts. The richer, sweeter styles work fabulously with pear and almond desserts and, of course, tarte tatin.
Following the dessert wine theme, I recently came across a sweet red version, made by Chateau de Putille, from the Cabernet Franc grape. Pale-tawny in colour, it's made from over-ripe, botrytis-infected berries, which are then stored overnight in a freezer before crushing. As the grapes are pressed, any residual water is frozen, leaving just sweet, concentrated juice from the sugar-laden pulp. To my knowledge, this method is unique to the Loire, but the result is a delicious compote of red summer fruits and quince pear, which stays fresh and concentrated on the palate.
For details, contact Thierry Caumel, Chateau de Putille (thierry.caumel@tiscali.fr). Their excellent Anjou Rouge 2005 is listed by Stone, Vine & Sun (01962.712351)