©2006, The Birmingham Post
"All Cognac is brandy, but not all brandy is Cognac", my guide, Patricia at Martell impressed on me. It can only be made from wines produced from vines within a delimited area in the Charente region, just to the north of Bordeaux.
There are six named sub-regions, with the two finest coming, confusingly, from Petite and Grande Champagne. Pierre-Jean Giraud of Cognac Giraud, explained that "the name was given by the invading Roman legions, because the chalky soils reminded them of Campania in Southern Italy". It is therefore no coincidence that the same title was given to the better-known sparkling wine region which shares its chalk soils.
The Cognac region as a whole is probably comparable to Bordeaux in size, but production is a fraction. The reason is obviously due to the distillation process, as it takes 10 litres of wine to make a 70 cl bottle of brandy.
Since the vine louse, phylloxera, devastated the region in the late 19th century, Cognac was replanted almost exclusively with Ugni Blanc, locally known at St. Emilion. It's disease-resistant, and makes an ideal base wine for distillation, as it's neutral in flavour, with an alcoholic strength of 9 degrees and high acidity.
"The wine production is perhaps the most difficult process", advised M. Giraud. "The problem is that we cannot use any sulphur or sugar during the fermentation , because any bad flavours will be concentrated by the distillation."
During the Middle Ages, Cognac was the centre for the salt trade, although it was recognised for its white wines. The breakthrough came in the 16th century, when Dutch merchants introduced distillation, because spirits were easier and more profitable to transport by sea and suffered less from spoilage. In fact, the term "Brandy" is a corruption of brandewijn, Dutch for "burnt wine".
Distillation is undertaken in a copper pot-still in two separate heatings, called "chauffes". During the first, the wine is heated on its lees (yeast deposits) to produce a milky "brouille", of around 30° abv. This is subsequently returned to the boiler for the "bon chauffe" which results in a colourless eau de via of around 72° abv.
The art of distillation is to know when to cut the spirit. Only the heart of "Coeur" is used, with both the "head" and "tail" discarded or, more accurately, returned to the next batch of brouille. The law only allows distillation over the winter months, until the 31st March, so beyond that date, the spirit can no longer be named Cognac.
Originally used for practical purposes, oak casks are the ideal receptacle for ageing brandy. The finest are generally sourced from Limousin oak, which has the perfect grain. During the first year, the barrels will impart colour and the flavours of wood, vanilla and spice.
The young spirit is then transferred to older casks, with an average capacity of around 350 litres. These permit evaporation which is the essential part of maturation.
The art of the cellar-master is to control it by the use of wet and dry cellars. A humid cellar allows loss of volume without reduction of alcoholic strength, whereas a dry cellar involves the loss of alcohol.
Referred to as the "angel's share", roughly 3% of the total stock, the equivalent of 20 million bottles each year, simply disappears into thin air. The only trace is a fungus, coating the barrels, cellars and storage houses in a fine black powder.
A fine Cognac can be matured in cask up to a maximum of 55 or 60 years, after which no further benefit is derived. Eaux-de-vie of this age are then transferred for storage in glass demi-johns kept in special cellars, sometimes referred to as "Le paradis". In effect, the ageing process can take so long that M. Giraud quoted the old Cognac expression, "the father works for the son".
As the spirit ages, it initially takes on characters of flowers, developing into fruit and finally evolving into spice and wood. The finest eaux-de-vie from the Grande Champagne require the longest ageing to achieve their full potential. Personally, the most remarkable feature is how the spirit appears to maintain the memory of the wine it once was.
In general terms, Cognac is the art of blending, not just casks from different ages, but from difficult zones. The youngest are VS (Very Special), formerly known as 3-Star, followed by VSOP, meaning Very Special (or Superior) Old Pale, whilst the oldest Xos mature for 6 years. Nevertheless, the best Cognac Houses tend to use brandies a good deal older than the minimum period.
Over 80% of the entire market is dominated by 4 brands. The biggest, Hennessy, produces 45% of total volume and, within the UK, the leading label is currently Courvoisier.
Martell was founded in 1715, by an erstwhile Channel Islander and smuggler. Its trademark is an elegant and dry style, and significantly, they distill their base wines without lees. Their most popular blend is VS, but their signature Cognac is Cordon Bleu, uniquely sourced from the Borderies Cru, aged in finer Tronçais oak. The result is a hedonistic blend of orange confit, vanilla, spice and cigar-rich elegance.
The last major player is Remy Martin, who specialise in Fine Champagne, a blend exclusively from the Grande and Petite Champagne zones. Their VSOP, a blend of 4 to 14 year old casks, is the world's market leader, and was repackaged in 2004 to give a sexier appeal. At the top of their range is their XO from 10 to 37 year old casks, with flavours of raisins and dried fruits, and their exclusive Extra.
Aside from the big four, there are a number of high-quality smaller producers operating in the connoisseurs' market. Whilst acknowledging their debt to the big boys, these niche players can offer something equally fine and exclusive.
Leading the pack are Cognac Frapin, who produce their brandy entirely from their own estates, comprising some 300 hectares within the best Grande Champagne area. The current MD, Beatrice Cointreau, can trace her lineage directly to the French writer, Rabelais.
Olivier Paultes, their Chef de Cave since 1987, oversees the blending of the entire range and is simply a master of his craft. The VSOP exudes orange and leather, the estate Chateau Fontpinot has structure and apricot, and the VIP XO is simply breathtaking. Stockists include Nickolls & Perks of Stourbridge, and Elegusto, Harborne.
Their competitors, Delamain make a fascinating contrast, as they own no vineyards and act solely as negociants, securing parcels for blending from other producers. They source the finest aged cognacs, and the hallmark of their style is delicacy and lightness. Their brandies are listed by Berry Brothers, Corney & Barrow, Justerini & Brooks and Tanners.
A final mention, too, for Cognac Ferrand which has a tradition of age and purity. Oddbins stock their Reserve and Selection des Anges.
Since its birth, Cognac has always been destined for export. Surprisingly, France is a whisky-drinking nation, and some 95% of volume is sold abroad.
Compared to a single malt, the price of brandy is always more expensive. Grapes are more costly than grain, particularly when they are grown in a defined region, whereas grain can be sourced from anywhere. Moreover, the Scotch industry thrives on second-hand barrels, compared to the new oak casks required for Cognac. Nevertheless, the underlying perception is that, whilst Cognac can promise a lot, too often, it delivers a little.
In the past the Cognac brands have created an image of a typical brandy-drinker as a middle-aged, middle-class male. They have targeted the luxury end of the market, primarily extolling its virtues as a post-prandial digestive treat.
The big houses are aware that they need to broaden the appeal, aside from using brandy as a base for cocktails or aperitifs with soda, ginger or tonic. Both Remy Martin and Martell are extolling the benefits of chilled Cognacs with oysters or smoked salmon, at the start of a meal, and the match is surprisingly good.
Rich desserts containing dried fruits, nuts and, above all, chocolate, also make ideal partners with a glass of VSOP or even XO. This Christmas, for a change, try some with Christmas pudding and see for yourself.