©2007, The Birmingham Post
South-West France comprises a patchwork of appellations (AOCs), which offer something for everyone. There are a host of inexpensive dry whites, luscious sweeties, Bordeaux lookalikes and unique black wines. The result is a portfolio of great diversity and individuality, that invariably stand out against an ocean of homogenous plonk that lines the supermarket shelves.
The disadvantage is that the fragmentation of styles means that the region is unable to speak with a single voice. The message can therefore become confused and the wines often overlooked. Certainly, there are few generalisations that can be made about the South-West, other than the strong climatic influence of the Atlantic, so perhaps it can best be understood through its constituent parts. The entire region stretches from the Atlantic to Toulouse, and from the eastern fringes of Bordeaux to the Pyrenees. At the heart, lies Gascony, one of the great gastronomic centres of rural France.
Commencing with Bergerac, the wines are essentially a continuation of its more senior neighbour, Bordeaux, but confusingly may be labelled in any number of ways. The basic AOC, Bergerac, is a catch-all for simply dry or sweet white and red, with a step-up in alcohol, where named Cotes de Bergerac.
There are also a number of Cru AOCs for the superior wines. Montravel was originally a white-only AOC, but red is now permitted, and Pecharmant is exclusively for reds. The remaining Crus tend to be reserved for sweet styles, where Monbazillac and Sauternes have the greatest reputation.
The whites, both sweet and dry, allow Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc and Muscadelle, and the reds are principally Merlot blends, with additions of Cabernets Franc and Sauvignon, and Malbec. Like anywhere else in France or, for that matter, the world of wine, the key to quality is to identify the best winemakers.
Chateau le Fage Bergerac Sec 2005 (Tanners £5.70 01743.234455) is a perfect representation of a clean, crisp Sauvignon Blanc style, with grassy, elderflower flavours, and just a hint of gooseberry. In contrast, the Pecharmant Chateau de Tiregand 2003 (Tanners £7.95) is a barrel-aged Merlot blend, tasting of plums and blackcurrants, underpinned with a firm backbone, but a silky texture.
It is great news, too, that Majestic are now listing wines by the English winemaker, Patricia Atkinson. Her Clos d'Yvigne "Le Petit Prince" 2003 (£7.99) shows supple plums and leather and the white "Princesse de Cleves" 2005 (£6.99) is expressive and aromatic.
Amongst the finest dessert styles are from Saussignac. Particularly noteworthy is Chateau Miaudoux 2002(Tanners £11.20 50 cl bt), a barrel-fermented and matured blend of Semillon and Muscadelle. Fresh, balanced and complex, it's a delicious combination of honey, peach and apricot, seasoned with vanilla spice. For a sublime treat, try the Clos d'Yvigne Saussignac 2001 (Justerini & Brooks £240 per case), an intoxicating mixture of honey, apricots and almond. Both are more than a match for fine Sauternes.
Gascony lies to the south, with Armagnac distillation at the heart of the region. It requires 6 litres of white wine to make one litre of brandy so, as spirit consumption has declined, there could have been an enormous surplus of unwanted grapes.
However, thanks to the dedication of pioneers such as Producteurs Plaimont and Yves Grassa of Chateau du Tariquet, this has been turned round to great effect, with the creation of the hugely successful denomination, Vin de Pays de Cotes de Gascogne. The region is now producing some of the best value crisp white wine anywhere in France.
Amongst the basic 2005 examples are Pujalet (£3.99 Waitrose), Colombelle (£4.79 Oddbins) and Tariquet's Ugni Blanc-Colombard (£4.25 The Wine Society, 01438 741177 et al). More interesting is Les Vignes Retrouves (Wine Society/Tanners, £4.95-£5.99), a blend of rare indigenous varieties including Gros Manseng, Arrufiac and Petit Courbu. Marks and Spencer label the same wine St. Mont, at £5.79.
A full-bodied white with guaranteed appeal is the Cote Tariquet (£6.50, Wine Society). Its creation came about when a batch of Sauvignon Blanc was accidentally tipped into a vat of Chardonnay, and the grapes were co-fermented. The resultant white grapefruit flavours were so delicious that the error is now repeated every harvest.
Tanners now list two personal favourites, by Domaine Pellehaut, under their own label, Gascony White and Rosé (both £5.10). The white is a blend of five varieties, with flavours of nettles, elderflower and ripe melon, softened with butter. The cherry-flavoured Rosé is more than just fresh and quaffable. Both are also listed by C. A. Rookes in Stratford (01789.297777).
An austere black wine, Gaston's signature red is Madiran. Made from Tannat, it's one of the most individually expressive varieties, characterised by hard, chewy tannins. Traditionally, these were softened by oxidation during barrel fermentation and frequent racking, but colossal reduction problems (rotten egg smells) were encountered when modern stainless vats were employed.
This led to the birth of micro-oxygenation, whereby tiny amounts of oxygen are dribbled through the fermentation tank. In addition to removing the stinky characters, the process has considerably improved the structure and texture, and tamed those fearsome tannins.
The leading proponent of Madiran is Alain Brumont, and at a recent dinner-party, his Chateau Bouscasse 1996 Vieilles Vignes was simply sensational. It was sinewy, with damson and leather characters, and an extraordinarily persistent finish. The wines are listed by Nickolls & Perks (www.nickollsandperks.co.uk) , from £98.10 plus VAT per case.
Domaine Berthoumieu is a more accessible alternative, now listed by Connollys (01212236 9269) at £10.49. Their Cuvee Charles de Batz (the historic figure upon which d'Artagnan was based) has more substance and depth, with black plum and chocolate characters, again supported with firm tannins. It was one of the stars of Connollys' recent 30th Anniversary wine tasting.
The current generation of South-Western winemakers are striving hard to introduce technological improvements across the board. Although somewhat remote, and more often a little confusing, the whites both dry and sweet are instantly approachable, and offer immediate pleasure, often at little cost. The reds are still somewhat distant, but a little research can be amply rewarded.